Climate Crisis Alert: How Global Warming is Destroying Sualkuchi (Assam)’s Priceless Muga, Eri & Pat Silk Legacy

Climate Crisis Alert: How Global Warming is Destroying Sualkuchi (Assam)’s Priceless Muga, Eri & Pat Silk Legacy

How Climate Change is Threatening Sualkuchi (Assam)’s Legendary Muga, Eri, and Pat Silk Heritage

Assam’s silk industry, from silkworm science to global demand and survival challenges

KAKALI DAS

Imagine a village where every home hums with the rhythm of a loom, where mornings begin not with alarms but with the soft clatter of wood and thread, and where every family carries a legacy spun not in years, but in centuries. In every house, there is cloth. In every courtyard, there is silk. And in every strand, there is a story waiting to be told. This is not imagination.

This is Sualkuchi, also known as the ‘Manchester of the East,’ a small village on the northern banks of the Brahmaputra River, quietly sustaining one of the oldest and most intricate textile traditions in the world.

Yet, despite its long and celebrated history, Sualkuchi today finds increasingly in the grip of climate change. What has survived for centuries is now facing a new kind of threat, one that is gradual but deeply disruptive.

Changes in temperature, humidity, and rainfall are affecting silkworm survival, cocoon quality, and the timing of production cycles. What was once a stable, seasonal rhythm has become uncertain. For a village where weaving is not just an occupation but a way of life, this shift carries serious consequences.

The Muga silkworm, scientifically known as Antheraeaassamensis, is particularly sensitive to environmental changes. It depends on a narrow range of temperature and humidity to complete its life cycle. Even small variations can lead to disease, weak cocoons, or large scale losses. Farmers across Assam have reported delays in rearing cycles and increased mortality of larvae in recent years. The host plants that sustain these silkworms, Som (Perseabombycina) and Soalu (Litseamonopetala), are also under stress due to deforestation, land use changes, and environmental degradation. Climate change is not acting alone. It is intensifying existing pressures and making an already delicate system more fragile.

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This is where the story of Sualkuchi must begin, not only as a symbol of heritage, but as a community navigating change.

But how does a village become a legend? How does a thread become history? And more importantly, can such a legacy survive in a world that is moving faster than the hands that weave it?

The story begins long before modern markets and global demand. It travels back to the 10th and 11th centuries, when King Dharma Pala of the Pala dynasty in ancient Kamarupa kingdom is believed to have brought skilled weaver families into this region. Their craft took root, and under the patronage of the powerful Ahom Dynasty in the 17th century, it flourished into an organized and celebrated tradition. Silk was no longer just fabric. It became identity, economy, and art woven into one.

Today, Assam remains the only place in the world where three distinct varieties of silk are produced naturally. Each silk carries not only a different texture and use, but also a different philosophy of living with nature. These are Pat silk, Eri silk, and Muga silk. To understand Sualkuchi, one must understand these silks, not as products, but as living stories.

Pat silk, derived from the mulberry silkworm Bombyxmori, is perhaps the most refined. Smooth, luminous, and elegant, it forms the base of many traditional Assamese garments. Its beauty lies in its simplicity, but also in the skill with which it is woven. Each motif, whether inspired by blooming flowers or sacred symbols, is first imagined, then drawn, and finally brought to life on the loom.

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Eri silk tells a quieter, more compassionate story. It is produced by the silkworm Samiaricini and is often called Ahimsa silk because it does not require killing the silkworm. The moth is allowed to emerge before the cocoon is spun into yarn. The result is a fabric that is warm, soft, and deeply sustainable. Used for shawls and winter wear, Eri silk reflects an ancient understanding that beauty does not have to come at the cost of life.

And then there is Muga silk, the golden thread that has become synonymous with Assam itself. Produced by the semi domesticated silkworm Antheraeaassamensis, Muga silk is unlike anything else in the world. It has a natural golden sheen that deepens with age, a durability that allows it to last for generations, and a cultural significance that transcends fashion. It is worn during weddings, festivals, and sacred rituals. It is inherited, treasured, and remembered.

But what makes Muga silk so rare, so expensive, and so fragile?

The answer lies in its origin. The silkworms feed exclusively on specific host plants such as Som(Perseabombycina) and Soalu (Litseamonopetalalpolyantha) trees, found in the Brahmaputra valley. The entire process is deeply dependent on the natural environment. From the laying of eggs to the formation of cocoons, every stage requires precise temperature, humidity, and care. A slight change in weather can disrupt the cycle. A sudden rise in temperature can kill the larvae. A shift in rainfall can delay production. The process is delicate, almost like nature itself is weaving alongside the artisans.

To produce just one kilogram of Muga silk yarn, nearly 5000 cocoons are required. And for a single saree, thousands of cocoons must be carefully unravelled into one continuous thread. This is not industrial production. This is patience turned into fabric.

Inside Sualkuchi, the process continues much like it has for centuries. The day begins early. Threads are spun, dyed, and stretched. Designs are imagined and translated into patterns. Common designs and patterns used inMuga Silk areKinkhap– symbolised by lions facing each other, gosbuta – the tree motif, the kolka– paisley motif, japi-pepa – symbolising musical instruments, the mishing motif – a mix of colours are the main prevalent motifs used widely in weaving of traditional garments in muga silk.

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The loom becomes both tool and companion. Hours pass, sometimes entire days, as a single piece slowly takes shape. A simple chador may take four days. A heavily designed mekhela sador can take a week or more.

And yet, despite this dedication, the weavers stand at a crossroads.

The markets today are flooded with cheaper, machine made fabrics. Polyester threads imitate silk. Synthetic blends are sold as authentic. Customers often cannot tell the difference, and price becomes the deciding factor. For the weavers, this is not just competition. It is erosion. Their labour, their time, their heritage, all reduced in value.

The problem deepens with the rising cost of raw materials. Indigenous silk is expensive to produce. The cocoons are scarce. The labour is intense. But the final price rarely reflects this reality. Many weavers struggle to sustain their livelihoods. Some consider leaving the craft altogether.

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An authentic Muga mekhela sador now costs more than ₹10,000, and high quality pieces can range from ₹25,000 to ₹1,50,000 or even more. Over the years, prices have increased sharply, and many believe that in the next ten years, Muga silk could become as valuable as gold. The cost of raw Muga yarn clearly shows this rise, going from around ₹800 per kilogram in the 1990s to over ₹21,000–₹25,000 per kilogram today.

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Because Muga silk has become so expensive, it is no longer easily affordable for many people. To make it more accessible, weavers often blend small amounts of Muga silk with cheaper silks like tussar. This allows buyers to experience the look and feel of Muga silk at a lower price, even though it is not entirely pure.

And then there is the invisible threat, one that does not announce itself loudly but changes everything quietly. Climate change.

The silkworms of Assam are highly sensitive. The ideal conditions for their growth range between 25 to 27 degrees Celsius with humidity in the range of 75-78%. But those conditions are no longer stable. Rising temperatures, erratic rainfall, and increasing pollution are disrupting the delicate balance required for sericulture.

In recent years, farmers have reported delays in silkworm rearing cycles. Some have lost entire batches due to heatwaves. Host plants are becoming scarce due to deforestation and land use changes. Pesticides from nearby agricultural and tea plantations are affecting the health and reproduction of silkworms. Even a slight environmental disturbance can lead to significant losses.

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Scientific data reflects this concern. Compared to over 24,000 metric tonnes of mulberry silk produced annually in India, Muga silk production remains extremely limited, often below 200 metric tonnes. This imbalance highlights both its rarity and its vulnerability.

Recognizing its uniqueness, the Government of India granted Muga silk a Geographical Indication status in 2007, legally protecting its origin. But protection on paper does not always translate to protection on the ground. Fake products continue to circulate. Enforcement remains inconsistent.

Yet, amid these challenges, there is a quiet resilience in Sualkuchi.

There is a growing global demand for sustainable and ethical fashion. Consumers are beginning to look beyond fast fashion and towards handmade, eco friendly alternatives. Eri silk, with its non violent production, is gaining attention worldwide. Designers are rediscovering traditional textiles. Digital platforms are connecting weavers directly with buyers, reducing dependency on middlemen.

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There are also efforts to make sericulture more climate resilient. Research institutions and organizations are working on improving silkworm breeds, conserving host plants, and developing adaptive practices. Small steps, perhaps, but significant ones.

Still, the question remains.

Can a village that measures time in threads keep pace with a world that measures it in seconds?

Can a craft that depends on patience survive in an age of speed?

Or will the golden threads of Assam slowly fade into memory?

As the sun sets over the Brahmaputra, the looms in Sualkuchi do not stop. They continue, steady and rhythmic, as they have for centuries. Because for the weavers, this is not just work. It is inheritance. It is identity. It is survival.

And as long as even one loom continues to move, as long as one thread continues to be woven, the story of Assam silk will not end. It will evolve. It will adapt. And it will continue to shine, not just in gold, but in the quiet strength of those who refuse to let it disappear.

Reference

1. Central Silk Board. Annual Report 2022–23. Ministry of Textiles, Government of India.
2. Central MugaEri Research and Training Institute. Muga and Eri Silk Production Technologies and Challenges.
3. Directorate of Sericulture. Status of Sericulture in Assam. Government of Assam.
4. Geographical Indications Registry. Muga Silk of Assam (GI Registration, 2007).
5. Indian Council of Agricultural Research. Studies on Climate Change Impact on Sericulture in Northeast India.
6. University Of Design, Innovation and Technology. MugaSilk – Weaving Golden Dreams.

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