MADAN KAMDEV: KHAJURAHO OF ASSAM

Dipankar Deka

Madan Kamdev is an ancient archeological site which is located in Baihata Chariali, Kamrup district of Assam, around 35 kilometers from Guwahati.

The history of the region has been documented in detail from 13th century by the Ahoms, who ruled most of Assam from 1228 CE till 1826 CE. But the history of the prior centuries is mostly obscure and we only know bits and pieces of it through secondary references like the accounts of the invaders.

The temple complex is widely believed to have been built by the Pala Dynasty between 10th and 12th century.

The Palas ruled the Kamarupa Kingdom from 900 CE to 1110 CE till the Gaurs came along. This temple is dedicated to the Hindu deity Shiva and his consort Parvati. It is a site of immense historical and architectural significance.

According to folklore, after Kamadeva was burnt to ashes by the wrath of Lord Shiva, his wife Rati Devi was devastated. She called upon Shiva to revive her beloved husband and Shiva gave life back to Kamadeva but Kamadeva could not regain his former form so Goddess Rati begged Shiva to restore her husband’s former form.

Shiva told Rati Devi that she had to worship Shiva somewhere north of the Kamakhya Temple to regain her husband’s former form.

Guided by indomitable devotion, she reached the spot where the Madan Kamdev Temple now stands. It is believed that Goddess Rati meditated and performed rituals at this place to please Lord Shiva.

Madan Kamdev is known for its intricate carvings and sculptures.

At Madan Kamdev there are three figures of Parsadevata found on three sides of the Adhisthana of the exterior of the temple-wall of the garbhagriha of the main temple, though they are in mutilated condition. All the three figures of the Goddesses are seated on a dead corpse.

A distinctive feature of Madan Kamdev Temple is the presence of erotic sculptures. These intricate carvings, though initially surprising to observers, hold profound significance in the context of tantric traditions associated with the temple. They symbolize the union of male and female energies, representing the interconnectedness of spiritual and physical realms.

There is a sculpture of a six headed Bhairav, four armed Shiva, terrible looking demon. There is stone idol of Apsara, the divine dancer, that resembles the structures of the Ajanta and Elora. Devi Saraswati and various other statues of animals have been identified as being from here. The Surya idols have influence of South Indian Architecture because Suriya idols of South India have empty feet, and two half – bloomed lotuses. Madan Kamdev has similar Idols.

Every sculpture within the temple complex is imbued with symbolism and spiritual themes. Whether it’s the depiction of deities in various mudras (hand gestures) or the portrayal of mythical creatures, each carving serves as a visual representation of the temple’s religious and cultural significance. The artistry goes beyond aesthetics, conveying deeper layers of meaning and devotion.

Many people called Madan Kamdev as ‘Khajuraho of Assam‘ because the erotic art of Madan Kamdev is similar to Khajuraho temple in Madhya pradesh.

The presence of erotic sculptures reflects the temple’s association with tantric practices prevalent during its construction. While these carvings might seem unconventional to modern sensibilities, they play a role in the spiritual and ritualistic aspects of the temple. The intertwining of sensuality and spirituality is a unique characteristic that sets Madan Kamdev Temple apart.

Madan Kamdev too had a shelter house, as there exists a brick structure alongside the stone temple Archeologist found 18 sets of ruins of stone temples new things are discovered in fresh excavations .

Despite its historical significance, Madan Kamdev suffered from neglect and environmental degradation for years. The remote location of the site made it difficult for conservation efforts to gain traction. However, in recent years, there has been a renewed interest in preserving this archaeological treasure. Conservation efforts have been initiated to protect and restore the temples, allowing future generations to appreciate their beauty.

Today, Madan Kamdev stands as an irrefutable proof to Assam’s glorious past and the architectural brilliance of the Pala dynasty. It offers a serene and off-the-beaten-path experience for history enthusiasts and travelers. The tranquility of the surrounding nature only enhances the charm of this hidden gem.

The Madan Kamdev temple’s architecture, with its blend of sensuous and religious artistry, reflects the cultural and artistic sensibilities of the time and provides valuable insights into the history of the region.

DIPANKAR DEKA is a student of Communication & Journalism, Gauhati University

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