The Mystery of Mayong: What’s Hiding in India’s Magic Village? (1)
Mayong Series (Part 1)

NILIM KASHYAP BARTHAKUR

Imagine you’ve been battling a stubborn cold for days, feeling miserable with a stuffy nose and a scratchy throat.
A doctor arrives at your doorstep, but instead of pulling out a stethoscope or prescribing pills, he hands you a simple bottle of water, mixed with fresh herbal leaves floating inside.
By chanting ancient mantras, he assures you that this will heal you. You’d be stunned, right? In our modern world, where medical science has reached dazzling heights, we can take out our phones, type in our symptoms, and within seconds, get a list of treatments and medicines.

Now, imagine a place where this high-tech world feels like a distant dream, a village where hospitals and clinics are nowhere to be found, and the people rely entirely on traditions to heal their bodies and spirits. Yes, this place does exist in this modern era.
This place is Mayong, a hidden gem in India, often called the “black magic capital” of the country. Tucked away in the lush landscapes of Assam, Mayong is a village where ancient practices weave magic into everyday life. Here, no oneholds a medical degree, yet the entire community places unwavering trust in traditional healing methods passed down through countless generations.
In an age of cutting-edge technology and instant information, the enduring faith of this village in its age-old remedies is nothing short of captivating. Isn’t it incredible how a place so rooted in tradition thrives in the 21st century, reminding us of the timeless power of human belief and the mysteries of healing?
This mystic land is located in the administrative district of Morigaon in Assam, at a distance of approximately 45 km from the city of Guwahati. The area is bounded by several rivers, such as the Brahmaputra in the north, the confluence of the Kalang-Kapili-Digaru rivers in the west, the Kalang (also spelt as Kolong) river in the south, and Manaha lake and Pakaria (also spelt as Pokoria) stream in the east.
The word Mayong is almost synonymous with the word magic. From time immemorial to mankind, the place Mayong has been famous as a nerve centre for the study and practice of Magic. Once upon a time, the place was reputed as a home of some dreadful sorcerers called “Bezes” in Assam. Just the name of this place still transports the minds of some people to a realm of black magic and witchcraft.
There is an opinion that the word Mayong itself had come into existence from the word ‘Maya’, which means illusion. Because of the close proximity of the illusory world of sorcery, people from outside usually feared visiting this place in the past. Mayong had both black magic and white magic practices. Black magic is one which is used for harmful purposes and white magic is used for medicinal purposes.

Over time, though the practices of black magic had disappeared from the heart of Mayong, the practices of white magic are still widely prevalent among its local villagers.
As I stepped into Mayong, a strange energy washed over me. Part excitement, part curiosity, and maybe something deeper, like the place itself was alive with secrets. Known as the “black magic capital” of India, Mayong felt like a world apart, where ancient traditions and mysteries still linger.
The village is split into two parts: Raja Mayong, the royal heart where the king’s descendants still live, and BurhaMayong, the older settlement steeped in history. Locals whispered about a long-ago clash between these two villages, a rivalry fueled by their magical practices, which only deepened the air of mystery.
In Raja Mayong, I noticed something odd:people clammed up when I mentioned magic. Their hesitant and quick subject changes hinted at secrets they weren’t ready to share. Eager to learn more, I decided to visit BurhaMayong, hoping for answers. But when I asked for directions, I hit a wall.
One shopkeeper, with a nervous smile, even claimed Burha Mayong didn’t exist! I was stunned, how could a whole part of the village just vanish from conversation? Though tempted to dig deeper, I stayed focused on my real mission: uncovering the importance of Mayong’s traditional healing practices.

In Mayong, healing isn’t about hospitals or prescriptions. Here, healers called Bez or Oja use herbs, ancient mantras, and rituals to treat everything from fevers to broken bones. These practices, passed down through generations, blend nature and spirituality in a way that feels almost magical. People from nearby villages, and even cities like Guwahati, flock to these healers when modern medicine fails them.
Stories abound of miraculous recoveries, like a man with a fractured leg healed by a mantra-infused creeper. This timeless wisdom, rooted in Assam’s lush forests and ancient folklore, makes Mayong a living testament to the power of tradition.
Stepping into Mayong College, I felt the same mysterious energy that had greeted me in the village, a blend of curiosity, excitement, and something unexplainable, as if the air itself carried ancient secrets.
There, I met Dr. Utpal Nath, a warm and thoughtful professor of economics, whose passion for preserving Mayong’s traditional healing practices shone through every word he shared. Over a captivating interview, he opened my eyes to the heart of Mayong, a place where age-old traditions aren’t just rituals but a cherished part of its cultural heritage.

Dr. Nath, a man of education and wisdom, surprised me with his unwavering belief in these practices. He revealed that he’s never visited a modern doctor, relying instead on the traditional healing methods he grew up with. Curious, I asked how someone so learned could trust what some call superstitions.
His eyes sparkled as he replied, “Who says these are superstitions or blind faith? Science may not accept them, but it can’t prove them wrong either. And what science can’t disprove, it often labels as blind belief.” His words made me pause, inviting me to see Mayong’s traditions in a new light.

He went on to explain the power of mantras as carefully crafted words that carry a unique energy. “Words have magic,” he said with a smile. “Think about it: on a tough day, when you’re feeling low, a kind word from someone can lift your spirits. Or when fear grips you, a few encouraging words can spark courage. Mantras work the same way, tapping into the power of words to influence the mind and even the universe.”

In ancient times, when entertainment was scarce, wise healers created mantras for incredible purposes. There was the Uron Mantra, believed to let people fly, the Luki Mantra for turning invisible, and the Mohini Mantra to mesmerize others. For healing, mantras like Bir Bhanga and Mer Bhanga were used to treat snake bites. While some of these practices have faded into legend, others remain vital for healing in Mayong today.
Becoming a traditional healer, or Bez, is no easy task. Dr. Nath shared that it requires intense meditation and discipline, often performed under the secretive glow of a black moon night. These sacred rituals are closely guarded, passed down only to those deemed worthy.
Many of the medicinal plants used by Mayong’s healers are so rare that even the botany experts don’t know their names. Years ago, a team of botanists came to study these plants, expecting to jot down familiar names. Instead, they stood in awe, marveling at herbs that local healers, known as Bez, have used for centuries to cure everything from fevers to fractures.

These healers craft a special remedy called panijara, water blessed with sacred mantras and mixed with these mysterious herbs. “The mantras carry a spiritual spark,” Dr. Nath said with a warm smile, “but it’s the herbs in the water that weave the real healing magic.”
My curiosity led me to the Mayong Village Museum, a gem created by Dr. Nath to preserve the village’s rich heritage. Walking through its doors felt like stepping into a storybook. The walls were alive with old photographs of healers, their wise eyes and steady hands captured mid-ritual, surrounded by simple yet fascinating tools, bundles of leaves, and instruments that seemed to whisper tales of their own.
In glass cases, I saw ancient manuscripts, their pages filled with mantras written in scripts so old they looked like secrets themselves, unreadable yet full of mystery. Each display was a piece of Mayong’s heart, a tribute to its timeless healing traditions that blend nature, faith, and the power of words.

Eager to dive deeper into Mayong’s mystical healing world, I set out to interview Tilak Hazarika, one of the village’s most renowned healers. Known far beyond Assam’s borders, his reputation as a Bez, or traditional healer, drew me to his doorstep. But when I arrived, I was met with a bustling scene, patients from distant corners of India and even foreigners from abroad filled his modest home, each waiting patiently for his touch of magic.
I waited three hours, captivated by the diverse crowd, all seeking remedies that modern medicine couldn’t provide. Their hopeful whispers and shared stories of miraculous recoveries filled the air with anticipation.
As I sat, a stranger approached, his eyes glinting with an odd intensity. “You’re here for answers, aren’t you?” he asked, his voice low and cryptic, as if he knew more about my quest than I did. Before I could respond, he vanished into the crowd……….
Nilim Kashyap Barthakur is a writer from Assam, and the contributor of Mahabahu
Mahabahu.com is an Online Magazine with collection of premium Assamese and English articles and posts with cultural base and modern thinking. You can send your articles to editor@mahabahu.com / editor@mahabahoo.com (For Assamese article, Unicode font is necessary) Images from different sources.