History of Dogra Attire: Jammu Region

AGRITA CHHIBBER

Dogras are well known for having a lengthy cultural heritage.

They celebrate their lives according to their own beliefs, dances, traditions, rituals, celebrations, etc. The Dogras’ lavish, spotless, and varied attire is one of the most essential aspects of the Duggar culture. They dress in accordance with the local weather in the Duggar region.

The Dogra dynasty or Hindu Rajput dynasty is the title given to the ruling family of Jammu and Kashmir or the Maharaja of Kashmir. The Dogra Rajputs were this dynasty’s kings.

The Dogras live in the hilly regions that border the Kashmir valley’s mountains on the south and stretch into the Punjabi plains. Dogras dress in basic outfits like long kurtas and pajamas fitted tightly at the ankles. In contrast, women typically wear tight jumpers or bodices over pajamas that closely resemble those worn by men.

History:

We may infer from the depictions in the paintings that the clothing worn by Dogra males can be separated into two categories: traditional Dogra clothing and clothing with foreign influences. We can infer from these paintings that the Turban played a significant role in the Dogra monarchs’ clothing. At that time, both men and women may be seen wearing a cap or a dupatta to cover their heads.

In addition to shielding people from the effects of the weather, the turban held socio-religious importance. The headdress worn by the kings and generals served as a symbol of their rank and military prowess in Kashmiri society.

The Dogra males used kameez, or what is now known as Kurta, to cover their upper bodies in addition to the turban. Kurtas or tunics were typically worn by troops during the Sanga era. On the stupa’s railing, a soldier is depicted dressed in a half-sleeved tunic that reaches to his knees and is secured with a kamarband at the waist.

Variety in Clothes

During the Dogra dynasty, one will have the opportunity to observe a wide variety of kurtas or tunics. The various tunic designs and hues used by the kings at that time served as symbols of their social position.

Gulab Singh’s image features a soldier wearing a coloured kameez with a front opening. He was willing to give his life to protect his land, as evidenced by the red colour of his clothing.

A well-fitted, collarless kurta with golden borders on the waist was another style. Similar to how there were various tunic styles, Maharajas were known to wear them.

Similar to this, several paintings show how Kashmiri monarchs wore fancier-looking shirts or kurtas that flaunted their rank in sharp contrast to regular men, who are seen wearing shirts that are more plainly styled and represent the status quo.

Jewelry

The most popular pieces of jewellery worn by the monarchs of Jammu and Kashmir were kamarbands and pearl necklaces. In addition, the spotless, regal-looking turban was a necessary component of their costume.

Impact on Present Generation:

Nowadays, they dress in cotton, wool, or embroidered silk clothing, with the necks typically fastened by brightly coloured strings or buttons. Around their waists, they wear a pashmina belt. Men from Kashmir still don turbans resembling those from the Mughal era. A Kashmiri woman wears a brilliantly coloured scarf as her headdress.

Women typically wear salwars, which can be embroidered, fitting, or gathered at the end. The leaf of the China tree is the most popular pattern. They dress in a loose-fitting gown with sleeves called a pheran on the upper body. They occasionally don a velvet embroidered sleeveless jacket, generally in a dark colour.

International Reach

The pashmina shawls produced in Kashmir are well-known throughout India and the rest of the world. Shawls have typically been in high demand from France. For many Kashmiri people, embroidering on beautiful wool clothing serves as their primary source of income. In various regions of the nation, both men and women like wearing the tunics worn by the monarchs of the rural dynasty.

These Dogra clothing pieces are now quickly disappearing, and people in both cities and villages are converting to sarees or western clothing like jeans, tops, T-shirts, sweaters/pullovers with hoods, blazers, ready-made coats, track suits, etc. Similar to how the economic situation has improved, social development, and the flow of money have all led to significant changes in how Dogra women dress.

In both rural and urban places, we frequently see girls and even married women wearing jeans, tops, loose pyjamas, etc. Ghuttanas and safas/pagris (simple or turre wala) are rarely seen on Dogra men, save for certain religious and social occasions like weddings.

The Dogra clothing, a significant component of our rich culture, must be preserved and promoted. It can be accomplished by holding exhibitions of the clothing and jewellery worn by Dogra kings, Dogra generals, Dogra leaders, and other notable individuals. This will introduce the younger generation to the clothing worn by Dogra kings and other historical figures.

On celebratory occasions like Mundans, weddings, Sutras, etc. as well as on national holidays, we should also promote Dogra attire, Dogri music, Dogra jewellery, and Dogra dancing. Children should be encouraged by their parents to wear Dogra attire on special occasions.

Agrita Chhibber is from Jammu

Images from different sources

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